I ended up tapping the opposite plate and using low profile machine screws, and that streamlined the device. I tried nyloc nuts, and they were too bulky when I went down to 11 gauge aluminum plate. I tried using LocTite, and that was a terrible idea. I also found that the keys scraped against the washers and plates of the device. The main issues I had when I was mucking about with it were that 1) no matter how much I adjusted the bolts, they would always loosen in my pocket and let the keys swing around and get caught on everything, and 2) I had to space out the keys more than just one washer (I was using 1/16" washers with #8 bolts) because the keys I was using were 1/8". I built my own from scratch and went through a few iterations before I settled on a final design. I am passionate about woodworking, general DIY and home improvement.I have some advice that you might find useful. If you liked this build, you might want to save the pin below to your DIY/Woodworking board. I loved the colors and also the black hooks add a nice rustic touch to the entire thing.Ĭheck out some of our other DIY Projects: So, we're done with the DIY Wooden Key Holder. Fixing the bracket for hanging the key holder on the wall Lastly, we fixed a bracket for hanging the key holder on the wall. Then, we drilled the pilot holes for the hooks and fixed the hooks as well. Danish Oil Finish: What You Need to be Wary of.fixing the bracing pieces at the back After fixing the bracing pieces at the back Then fixed the two pieces at the top and bottom of the key holder on the back of the holder. Applying glue on the base pieces before joining them using the bracing piece at the back Temporarily clamping the base pieces for fixing the bracing pieces at the back We used the quick grip clamp to align it perfectly after gluing. Step 10: So we first applied glue on the edges of the base pieces and used both screws and glue to hold it together. We drilled the pilot holes for the screws (1-¼”) and countersinked them. Step 9: Now we had to put everything together as per the plan. This is similar to the joinery on a pallet box. Plus the back of the key holder won’t be visible after it's hung on the wall. Since we wanted this to be a two-hour project, we decided to go this route. The two bracing pieces are fixed for screwing together the main part of the key holder.Īnother option is to clamp them and wait for several hours. Sanding all the pieces for the key holder Step 7: Then we sanded down everything from 120 grit up to 220 grit using the random orbital sander. All eleven pieces for the key holder sized and laid out before joining Triangular Piece Plan-Key Holder Cutting the triangular piece on the miter sawįour pieces for the base, two pieces for the bracing at the back, one top horizontal piece and two triangular pieces for the letter rack and two facing pieces for the letter rack. The triangle measures ¾" x 1-¼" (Height) x 5" (Length) (check drawing). Step 6: Next we made the triangle to raise up the envelope holder piece. Base Piece Plan Marking the line for cutting the corner of the base piece Making the constituent pieces of the base of the key holder as per plan Base pieces with edges mitered as per plan We marked a point 3” from the lower end on both sides and joined it to the middle of the piece.Īfter we made the marking, we cut off the wood along the line on the miter saw. Step 5: Next we had to cut off the triangular portion as per plan for the base piece of the holder. With this, we can move on to the next steps instantly without clamping and waiting. Without these pieces, we would have to wait for hours until the glue in between the base pieces dry. These pieces are purely for keeping the base pieces together and to avoid a long wait time after clamping. Step 4: Next for the bracing pieces at the back we made two pieces of ½” x 1-¼” x 12”. Top Horizontal Piece Plan Marking the size for the top horizontal piece Step 3: Next we cut out one piece of 1-¼” x ¾” x 12” for the top horizontal piece of the key holder. Marking the size for the face pieces of the letter rack Sizing the pieces for the facing piece Step 2: Then we cut out two nos of ¾” x 2-½” x 12” size for the facing piece of the letter rack. Base Piece Plan- Note the four 16" x 3" pieces including the triangles Sizing the base piece of the key holder Step 1: We cut out four nos of ¾” x 3” x 16” size pieces on the miter saw from ¾” x 3” size lumber for pieces. (The Triangular portion is cut out in a later step). Note: This entire build uses ¾" thick lumber except for the two bracing pieces at the back which are not in view. For e.g., 2 x 4 is the nominal size while 1-½" x 3-½" is the actual size. Please note the difference in dimension between nominal size and actual size.
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